The backside road to Hana is Maui’s wild, rugged, and lesser known alternative to the traditional Road to Hana. Driving the ‘other road to Hana’ is the perfect way to get off the beaten path when exploring Maui.
Instead of turning back after reaching Hana, adventurous travelers can continue past Kipahulu, looping around the remote southeastern coast of the island.
The route, also known as Pi’ilani Highway (Highway 31), offers a completely different experience – dramatic sea cliffs, rolling lava fields, paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) country, and breathtaking open landscapes that feel like another world.
While it’s not for the faint of heart – portions of the road are rough, narrow, and unpaved – it’s an epic, off the beaten path Maui journey that showcases a wilder side of Maui that few visitors get to see. Here’s everything you need to know before taking on this unforgettable Maui road trip.
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Why Trust This Back Road to Hana Guide?
When I’m not traveling you’ll find me on Maui, a place I’ve been lucky enough to call home for over a decade. I’ve driven the back side road to Hana countless times and if you’re looking for an adventure where many won’t go, this should be on everybody’s itinerary while traveling Maui.
Next, you’ll find out about all the best stops on the back road to Hana, where they are located, what to expect, how to prepare, and more. Just think of me as your personalized, local backside road to Hana guide.
🚗 Travel Tip: If you would prefer to follow along to an audio tour as you cruise the backside to Hana, I recommend the Shaka Guide! The Shaka guide tours are great for independent explorers who want the freedom to explore on their own terms, but like to learn about the spots they’re visiting.
The tours use GPS to offer turn-by-turn directions and audio narration with stories and music. This will leave you with a deeper understanding and connection to Hawaii.
About the Back Road to Hana
The backside road to Hana is the rugged route along a narrow winding road that loops around the southeastern side of Maui. It’s the alternative way to complete the Road to Hana in a full circle rather than backtracking on Hana Highway. This drive offers breathtaking, raw landscapes but comes with challenges.
Instead of lush rainforests and waterfalls of the classic Road to Hana, the backside route features barren lava fields, rolling green hills, and sweeping ocean views. The contrast is striking.
The stretch from Kipahulu to Kaupo is narrow, winding, and partially unpaved in some areas. Landslides, potholes, and one-lane sections make it tricky. Be prepared for slow, careful driving. The back road to Hana conditions are as followed.
Some parts of the road are unpaved and it can get narrow. Other parts get windy and are on a side of a cliff. And some of those narrow and windy parts of the road are without a guard rail!
Along the way you’ll see various farm animals, views of Kahoolawe and Molokini the horse shoe shaped atoll. Compared to the often-packed Hana Highway, the backside road is far less traveled, offering a peaceful, untouched feel.
However, few services exist – no gas stations, stores, or restaurants for long stretches.
⚠️ Travel Tip: Since the roads are sketchy at points, some rental companies do not want you driving through this area of Maui. Read the fine print as driving the back road to Hana, Maui may breach your rental car agreement or insurance.
The Best Stops Along the Backside Road to Hana
For the purpose of this article, I’ll be listing the stops starting Upcountry Maui towards Hana. Now let’s get to the exciting part – the best stops along the backside road to Hana!
Before you embark on your adventure, you want to make sure you have a full tank of gas. The last gas station until you get to Hana is right next to Grandmas Coffee House which is one of the best breakfast spots on Maui.
Next up is Ulupalakua. This towns contains the Ulupalakua Ranch Store. This is a great place to use the restroom and grab snacks or food for a picnic somewhere on the road.
Shortly after the ranch store is Maui’s only winery. They offer free wine tastings and are known for their pineapple wine. Sipping pineapple wine is an unusual thing to do in Maui and is one of the best things to do Upcountry Maui.
Upcountry Maui
Soon after the winery keep a lookout on your right for epic view of Kahoolawe, Molokini Crater, and volcanic cinder cones (pictured above ↑). This view may be one of the best views on Maui.
Next on the left side of the road perched on a hill, you’ll see a little shop with several potted plants and such. This is the honey bee sanctuary. It’s worth a stop if you have time.
They have a small shop with local, handmade ‘Hive to Home’ and ‘Bees to Body’ products. This is one of the best things to do in Maui on a budget. Grab a cup of coffee and try it with their lavender honey.
As you continue driving down the Piilani Highway you’ll come up on some old homes and a bunch of run down old cars. In ancient times most of the Hawaiians lived in this area opposed to current day West Maui or South Maui.
About 40 minutes into your drive you’ll spot the Kihikinui wind turbines. If you haven’t already, you will soon understand why this is a perfect spot for them. It gets pretty windy!
Kaupo
You’ll soon reach Manawainui Gulch, one of the most rugged, Mars-like landscapes on Maui. There are plenty of shoulders to pull over, take in the beauty and also take a few pictures.
Soon you will come up on St. Joseph’s Church. From the grounds you can get a great view of Kaupo gap – a dramatic, desolate section of Haleakala landscape.
They hold masses here on the 5th Sunday of every month but you can explore the grounds at any time. Don’t be surprised to share space with several chickens and cows that live here.
Next you’ll see a rainbow colored sign, that’s the Kaupo store. At this historic store you can purchase snacks and use a restroom if you are a customer.
It only costs a donation and just remember you are off the beaten path Maui so don’t expect much. It will make you feel like you’re on a wild foreign adventure tho.
Another beautiful coastal church on the back way to Hana drive is Huialoha Church, a remote picturesque oceanfront church. If you only have one day, there’s still a lot to see, so snap a picture and be on your way.
You are able to drive down the road to see the church up close or there is a viewpoint that overlooks the church on the bay after the bend in the road.
After the viewpoint the road gets narrow to a point that only one car fits. So drive with caution and be very aware. Know that there’s a possibility that you’ll have to reverse if a car is coming in the opposite direction.
Kipahulu
I promise all the bumpy and narrow road conditions are worth it because we haven’t even reached the highlights of this trip yet. The first being Alelele Falls which you can find on google maps here.
Alelele Falls is a short hike that takes 15-20 minutes to reach. These falls are some of the best waterfalls that Maui has to offer. The trailhead is located after the bridge on your left.
The water that cascades down creates a small pool at the bottom of the falls that you can swim in. I know it may sound tempting but swimming under the falls is dangerous as rocks get un-lodged and fall from the top of falls which can knock you in the head.
So avoid temptation and swim around the falls and definitely not under them.
Need a coffee or fresh fruit after your refreshing waterfall plunge? Stop at the Laulima fruit stand next. Here they sell fresh fruits, banana bread, and coffees all grown locally on their farm. Let’s support local and sustainability.
Haleakala National Park
Finally, the highlight of the back road to Hana is the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park, one of my favorite stops. Inside the Kipahulu entrance is the Oheo Gulch (Seven Sacred Pools) and one of Maui’s most iconic hikes, the Pipiwai Trail.
The Oheo Pools are a tier of waterfalls that flow into pools and eventually into the ocean. On a calm day you are able to swim inside the pools.
The Pipiwai Trail is a moderate hike that is 4 miles out and back. It takes anywhere from 2 to 4 hours to complete depending how long you stop and take it in.
The rainforest trail starts near the National Park visitors center and takes you past 2 waterfall outlooks, an ancient banyan tree, through a magical bamboo forest, and eventually to the awe inspiring 400 foot Waimoku Falls.
🎋 Read Full Post: Guide to Hiking Pipiwai Trail
Hana Town
At last you’ve made it to Hana town. There are many adventures to have in Hana so I always recommend staying a night or two in Hana to be able to experience all that Hana has to offer.
Hana Highlights include Palapala Homui Church, Charles Lindbergh’s final resting place, food trucks, thai food, Hana Bay, Samoa Beach, and the general store.
Your other option is to turn around and drive back the way you came or continue the full loop on the Hana Highway (Road to Hana).
There are twice as many awesome things to do on the road to Hana as there are on the back side to Hana so again that will also be an all day excursion hence why I recommend staying a few nights in Hana.
💦 Check out these Hana Travel Guides to assist you on your travels:
Beyond Hana
Beyond Hana is where the road to Hana takes over. These are some of the best stops to look forward to.
- Waianapanapa State Park – This park contains one of Maui’s only beautiful black sand beaches.
- Wailua Falls
- Ke’anae Peninsula
- Twin Falls
Should You Drive the Backside Road to Hana?
✔️ Yes, if…
- You love adventurous type, off-the-grid experiences.
- You’re comfortable driving winding, unpaved roads.
- You want to see a completely different side of Maui.
❌ No, if…
- You have a low-clearance rental car (some companies won’t cover damage here).
- You’re not comfortable driving on narrow roads with steep drop-offs.
- You don’t want to risk being stranded with no cell service.
Back Road to Hana Tips
- 🚗 Certain rental car companies prohibit driving on this road due to rough conditions, but it’s not illegal to drive here.
- Risks include a tow truck that take a long time and costs lots of money.
- 🌦️ Check the weather – Heavy rains can make dirt sections muddy and impassable. Flash floods happen suddenly.
- ⛽️ Fill up on gas before Hana. No stations past that Pukalani or Paia town
- 🤙 Locals use this road daily.
- ⏰ Start early to avoid getting caught on rough roads in the dark. The drive takes longer than expected & you don’t want to be on the unpaved sections after dark.
- If driving the reverse loop all the way around back to Kahului make a reservation in advance for Wai’anapanapa State Park.
- Break Ins do occur. Take your valuables with you or at the very least keep them out of sight.
- 💰 Bring cash. Most places on this part of the island don’t acccept credit cards.
- Malama Aina – which means take care of the land. Do this by picking up your trash and staying on the trail.
- Pull Over for locals to pass you. They are not on vacation & this is still a local roadway.
- 📲 Download the Shaka Guide for turn by turn directions via GPS.
- 📵 Expect spotty cell service.
- Rent a Car today.
Backside Road to Hana FAQ’s
What is the back road to Hana?
The back road to Hana refers to the Pi’ilani Highway (Hwy 31), which loops around the southeastern side of the island, connecting Kipahulu (near Hana) to Upcountry Maui. It’s an alternative way to complete the road to Hana in a full circle rather than backtracking the traditional route.
Where Does the Back Way to Hana Start
The back road to Hana starts in Kula town about 15 minutes past Makawao. This part of Maui is known as Upcountry. Starting your journey to Hana on this side is a great way to experience this side of Haleakala volcano.
How Long Does it Take to Drive the Backside to Hana
The drive time from Kula town to Kahului is about 4 hours, but with all the fun things to do and see this is a full day excursion – let’s say 10-12 hours.
Of course if you only want to drive the back side of the road to Hana because you want to reach Haleakala National Park Kipahulu District sooner, you can turn around after exploring the park and drive back the way you came.
Plus if you are staying in a popular area like Ka’anapali on West Maui it is another 45 – 60 minuets getting to the starting point and back to your hotel. Yes this is going to be a long day but I promise its worth it!
Can you do the road to Hana backwards?
Yes, you can do the road to Hana “backwards” by starting in Upcountry Maui and taking the Piilani Highway through the backside road to Hana before reaching Hana town.
This means you’ll drive through rugged, remote backside first then continue along the traditional Hana Highway back toward Kahului.
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Final Thoughts on Driving the Back Side Road to Hana
If you’re looking for a unique, less traveled way to experience Maui’s rugged beauty, the backside road to Hana is an epic choice. If you found this article useful, let fellow travelers know in the comments below, 👇
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